Jim Donini

Jim Donini

American climber
Date of Birth: 23.07.1943
Country: USA

Biography of Jim Donini

Jim Donini, an American mountaineer, has been passionate about rock climbing since childhood. By the mid-1960s, his name was already well-known among mountain enthusiasts. Donini participated in numerous expeditions in Alaska, many of which involved pioneering new routes. His climbing partners included John Bragg and Jay Wilson, and his regular partner over time became Jack Tackle. It was with Tackle that Donini made his famous ascent in 1991, when they successfully established a new route on the eastern face of Mount Barille, heading towards Cobra Pillar. This achievement set a record, as it took another 15 years for climbers to repeat the route to Cobra Pillar in 2006 by Americans Jared Ogden and Ryan Nelson. Notably, climbers had noticed this beautiful, unclimbed, but incredibly difficult route as early as 1987. However, in that attempt, the mountain proved unconquerable, and it was only four years later that Tackle and Donini succeeded in completing it. Reflecting on their first expedition in 1987, Donini recalled that the weather was not favorable for the pioneers - the morning after the first night, he and Jack discovered half a meter of fresh snow. Later, their lives were almost claimed by an avalanche, and after completing two-thirds of the route, they had to turn back as the weather worsened. However, in 1991, the weather was favorable for the pioneers, and it took them five days to conquer the route. In 1999, Donini received the "Robert and Miriam Underhill Award" from the American Alpine Club (AAC), and from 2006 to 2009, he served as the club's president. "To climb where no one has climbed before, to turn around a corner where no one has turned before, to grab a hold that no one has held before - that is my path, the path of exploration," says Jim Donini. Today, Jim Donini is one of the most renowned mountaineer-explorers and pioneers in Alaska and Patagonia.

Jim Donini

© BIOGRAPHS