Mark Inglis New Zealand mountaineer, motivator Date of Birth: 27.09.1959 Country: New Zealand

Biography of Mark Inglis

Mark Joseph Inglis, a New Zealand alpinist and motivator, is known worldwide for being the first double amputee to conquer Mount Everest in May 2006. He was born in 1959 in New Zealand. Inglis attended Lincoln University, where he studied biochemistry and conducted research in the field of leukemia.

In the late 1970s, Inglis began his professional career in mountaineering while working in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park. In 1982, he and his partner, Philip Doole, became trapped in a crevasse on Mount Cook. After spending 13 days in the crevasse, they were rescued, but Inglis lost both his legs below the knees due to gangrene.

Despite his disability, Inglis adapted to prosthetics and resumed training. He pursued cycling and even became a part of the national team. In the 2000 Sydney Paralympic Games, he won a silver medal in the 1-kilometer race. Seeking redemption for the loss of his legs in Mount Cook, Inglis returned to the mountain in 2002 and successfully conquered it.

His first "climb without legs" was documented in the film "No Mean Feat: The Mark Inglis Story." In 2003, Inglis received the New Zealand Order of Merit, further establishing his fame in the country. In September 2004, he reached another milestone by summiting Cho Oyu, an 8,000-meter peak.

However, Inglis still had a daring dream – to conquer Mount Everest, the world's highest peak. After years of preparation, he began his ascent in April 2006. Despite facing challenges, such as a broken prosthetic on the way up, Inglis persevered and reached the summit on May 15, 2006. His triumph made him the first person without both legs to conquer Everest.

Unfortunately, Inglis's achievement was marred by controversy. During the climb, his group encountered British mountaineer David Sharp, who was attempting the climb alone and in dire conditions. The group, including Inglis, decided to continue their ascent without providing assistance to Sharp. The incident sparked debate and criticism in the media, questioning the morality of their actions.

Inglis defended himself by stating that the decision to proceed was made by the expedition leader, not him. He argued that it was difficult to survive at an altitude of 8,500 meters, and helping others was not feasible. Nevertheless, the moral dilemma remained, and the incident tarnished the expedition.

Inglis returned to New Zealand as a hero and was featured in the show "This Is Your Life" in 2007. Today, he resides in Hanmer Springs with his wife and three children. In addition to his mountaineering accomplishments, Inglis has written and published four books. He is actively involved in charitable work and is the founder of the "Limbs4All" foundation.