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Elsa SchiaparelliDesigner
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 Italy |
Biography of Elsa Schiaparelli
Elsa Schiaparelli, an Italian fashion designer, was known for her talent, eccentricity, and wit. Every collection she created caused a sensation, and she believed that nothing was impossible. She opened one of the first boutiques in the world and laid the foundation for what would later be known as "prêt-à-porter" fashion. Although her name is somewhat forgotten today, in the 1920s and 1930s, she was considered one of the most famous haute couture designers.
Schiaparelli was born in Rome and grew up in an intellectual and somewhat eccentric environment, which influenced her creative work. Her uncle, Giovanni Schiaparelli, was a famous astronomer who discovered "canals" on Mars. After a failed marriage and divorce, Schiaparelli found herself in Paris as a young, determined woman with a small daughter. One day, while hosting an American friend, she noticed his simple yet elegant sweater. She discovered that an Armenian immigrant who lived nearby knitted those sweaters, and this woman became Schiaparelli's first collaborator. Together, they developed models of sweaters and dresses. In 1927, a black wool dress decorated with a white bow in the shape of a butterfly was a true revelation.
Schiaparelli achieved even greater success by working with sportswear. She received a large order from the "Strauss" store, and the entire Armenian community in Paris, particularly the women, worked on fulfilling this order. This order brought Schiaparelli fame, and the Armenian family she had befriended was able to open their own knitwear factory. The House of Schiaparelli began its life in three small rooms on Rue de la Paix. Over the years, the world came to know this place.
In her first sweater collection, Schiaparelli used motifs from African art and the works of cubist artists. Her next collection shocked everyone, as she interpreted the designs based on sailor tattoos. There were snakes, anchors, hearts pierced with arrows, and more. She was also the first to introduce the "fishbone" pattern and images of lobsters, which later transitioned from knitwear to silk and swimsuits. Schiaparelli had a passion for aviation, and after Charles Lindbergh's transatlantic flight in 1927, she showcased a series of designs that became the foundation of the enduring pilot style.
After successfully working on sportswear for several years, Schiaparelli decided to try her hand at creating evening gowns, and she achieved great success in this field as well. Her simple, long sheath dress made of black crepe, combined with a white jacket and a scarf draped across the back, became a symbol of elegance. All couturiers somehow imitated this idea. In 1934, Schiaparelli moved to Place Vendôme, the center of social life for the wealthy. There, she opened a boutique, one of the first in the world, selling small series of her own designer clothing. The boutique offered evening sweater dresses that were worn with long skirts, blouses, and costume jewelry. The use of costume jewelry instead of real gems was ridiculed by other fashion designers, but the customers loved it.
By the mid-1930s, Elsa Schiaparelli's talent had reached its peak. Every collection she created caused a sensation. Her collection titled "Stop, Look, and Listen" showcased raincoats interpreted as evening wear, embroidered saris, and many other unique finds. The dresses adorned with buttons in the shape of a French lily particularly amazed everyone. "Just look at Schiaparelli's collection to see the reason for the crisis," one famous newspaper ironically wrote, referring to the devaluation of the national currency. In these and subsequent collections, Schiaparelli even began using zipper fasteners in evening gowns. At that time, they looked somewhat crude, but the unexpected and new effect they created fascinated the public.
Schiaparelli also worked in other countries. In Germany, for example, she showcased collections titled "Pagan," "Musical Instruments," and "Butterflies." Women dressed in these designs resembled figures from Botticelli's paintings. The "Astrological Collection" presented garments adorned with zodiac signs, moon and sun images.
However, her most famous collection was "Circus," inspired by the renowned American "Barnum" circus. The salon where the collection was presented was decorated by the famous designer Jean-Michel Frank. The clothing featured clowns, elephants, trapeze artists (with buttons replicating their shapes), as well as the words "Caution, painted" cleverly integrated into the designs. The bags resembled hot air balloons, the gloves looked like white stockings, and the cone-shaped headwear resembled ice cream cones. Schiaparelli was the first to transform a simple fashion show into a vibrant, festive spectacle.
Elsa Schiaparelli loved collaborating with artists. She worked with writer, artist, and theater personality Jean Cocteau, artists Salvador Dalí and Kees van Dongen, and photographers Horst P. Horst and Man Ray.
Her fascination with surrealism influenced her work. Her hats, in particular, were striking, such as the lamb chop hat, the shoe hat, and the telescope hat, to name a few. The pockets on her costumes resembled boxes, evoking associations with Dalí's paintings and sculptures. Dalí designed a black velvet telephone-shaped handbag with gold embroidery for her, while Cocteau created motifs for embroidery. Jean Hugon invented buttons that resembled small sculptures, which have since become a trademark of the House of Schiaparelli. The most surreal piece was a necklace made of aspirin tablets, created by Louis Aragon and Elsa Triolet.
Schiaparelli also worked extensively with stars of cinema and theater. Katharine Hepburn, for example, claimed that her career truly took off when she started wearing Schiaparelli's designs. Elsa created a glamorous image for Gary Cooper and also dressed Marlene Dietrich, Michèle Morgan, and other actors.
Another Hollywood star whose image became closely associated with the House of Schiaparelli by chance was Mae West. "She sent me her famous figure measurements and, for greater persuasiveness, her plaster cast in the pose of Venus de Milo," Schiaparelli wrote in her autobiography. This rather kitschy item inspired artist Leonor Fini to create a bottle for Schiaparelli's legendary fragrance, "Shocking." Subsequently, all fragrances from the House of Schiaparelli were given names starting with the letter S. The first men's fragrance, "Suff," had a bottle in the shape of a smoking pipe. The idea for the bottle of "Roi Soleil" belonged to Dalí.
World War II affected the lives of millions, including Elsa Schiaparelli. In 1939, she reduced her production, and after the occupation of Paris in 1940, she left for the United States, where she had many friends. She worked there for several years, leaving her manager, Bettina Bergery, in charge of the Paris branch. After the liberation of France in late 1944, Elsa returned to take the reins of her fashion house once again.
However, times had changed. In the late 1940s, Christian Dior's star rose. The New Look style captivated the minds of all women. Schiaparelli decided it was time for her to retire from the fashion world. Surrounded by artists, she divided her time between her beautiful Parisian home on Rue de Berry and her estate in Tunisia.
Once, Elsa remarked that fashion design was "the most difficult and thankless art because shortly after a dress comes to life, it becomes a thing of the past." However, she was wrong. True works of art never age. Today, Schiaparelli's creativity continues to be studied by anyone who has dedicated themselves to the challenging art of haute couture.
