Wanda Rutkiewicz Polish climber Date of Birth: 04.02.1943 Country: Poland

Biography of Wanda Rutkiewicz

Wanda Rutkiewicz, a Polish mountaineer, was born on June 23, 1986. She became the first woman to conquer the second highest peak in the world, K2. Rutkiewicz was born in Plunge, Lithuania, in the former USSR. During World War II, her family moved to Poland and settled in Wroclaw. She obtained her education at Wroclaw University of Technology, where she earned a degree in electrical engineering.

From a young age, Rutkiewicz was very active in sports. She played volleyball, participated in high jump, shot put, and running. Her father introduced her to mountaineering, although their relationship was not particularly close. Rutkiewicz discovered her love for mountains in her childhood, which ultimately shaped her entire life.

On October 16, 1978, Rutkiewicz conquered Mount Everest, becoming the third woman in the world, the first Polish woman, and the first European woman to achieve this challenging feat. In 1985, she successfully climbed Nanga Parbat, one of the three most dangerous eight-thousanders. On June 23, 1986, Rutkiewicz became the first woman to conquer K2, the second highest peak in the world. Unfortunately, this victory was overshadowed by the tragic deaths of two of her friends and team members, Lilliane and Maurice Barrard, during the descent.

In 1987, Rutkiewicz climbed Shisha Pangma, reaching a height of 8,027 meters. Despite being one of the strongest female mountaineers in the world, she faced extreme difficulty in finding sponsors for her expeditions. Her equipment was not of the highest quality, and her achievements in the mountains relied mainly on her innate optimism and genuine love for the mountains. She later signed a controversial and challenging contract, known as "the devil's contract" among climbers. Under this contract, Rutkiewicz would only receive money for her ascents if she successfully reached the summit and provided footage. Sadly, this decision cost her life.

Rutkiewicz was also an author and filmmaker, known for her documentaries "Tango Akonkagua" and "Snow Women." She wrote extensively and delivered lectures. In 1989, she conquered Gasherbrum II, another eight-thousander, and a year later, she climbed Gasherbrum I. In 1991, she successfully climbed two famous Himalayan peaks, Cho Oyu and Annapurna I. Rutkiewicz became the leading contender in the world to be the first woman to conquer all 14 of the world's eight-thousanders, having already reached the summit of eight of them. At the age of 49, in 1992, she set out to conquer Kangchenjunga, the third highest peak in the world. Unfortunately, Rutkiewicz disappeared during the ascent, and her body was never found.

Rutkiewicz was known for her strength, determination, and complexity. She was married twice but did not have any children. She was also incredibly beautiful, with expressive eyes, elegance, and a soft voice. However, in the mountains, she always displayed unwavering determination. She sought to break the stereotype of the "weak woman."

Rutkiewicz loved mountains wholeheartedly, dedicating her entire life to them and ultimately giving her life to them. She lost several friends during her years in the mountains. She once said, "The more we, mountaineers, lose our loved ones, the more we love life."

In 1995, Italian mountaineers Fausto de Stefani, Marco Galezzi, and Silvio Mondinelli discovered Rutkiewicz's body or presumed body. It remains unknown whether she stood on the conquered summit of Kangchenjunga or perished during the ascent. If she did indeed conquer it, she would have been the first female mountaineer to conquer the three highest peaks in the world.

"I'm not here to conquer mountains – they are as much a part of the world as people. I conquer myself," Rutkiewicz once said.